switch to improved custom log format

This switches to a fully custom log format instead of using a variant of
the standard combined format since we don't use any tools requiring the
logs to be a standard format. This provides a cleaner format, allows us
to freely add new fields and gets rid of legacy/redundant fields.

The redundant timestamp already provided as the syslog timestamp is
dropped along with the legacy identd field always set to a dash.

This adds the connection serial number for identifying requests coming
from the same connection. TLS version is added as a replacement for our
previous addition of the URI scheme. This also adds the total request
length and total bytes sent to the client instead of only the body bytes
sent.

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